1G Head
Swap Parts List
By
This list is believed to be complete down to the last bolt - however, if you find something that's not on the list, please notify me. With that said, the list also takes into account that you re-use as much stuff as possible (bolts, nuts, etc) and have an ample supply of tools and common necessities (like gasket maker, zip ties, wire taps, etc). Make sure you have a spare car, a manual (i.e., Chilton's or Hayes), and a buddy available when you do it. Most of the procedure is common sense - unbolt, remove, install, bolt-on, etc. I'll only detail the potential roadblocks below. If you can't figure out the rest by yourself you shouldn't be doing it alone! I'm more than happy to answer any questions you may have as well.
| PART NAME | PART NO# | QTY | VEHICLE | NEED? | NOTES |
| Complete Cylinder Head | - | 1 | 1G 4G63 | 1990-94 N/T or Turbo head. Cams on down. | |
| Exhaust Cam Sprocket | MD189399 | 1 | 4G64 DOHC | *Optional | Timing marks correct, but you can use 4G63 |
| Intake Cam Sprocket | MD300439 | 1 | 4G64 DOHC | *Optional | gears if you want - just advance the timing. |
| Exhaust Cam Sprocket | MD170799 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | *Optional | Advance timing 1/2 notch. |
| Intake Cam Sprocket | MD170799 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | *Optional | Advance timing 1/2 notch. |
| Camshaft Angle Sensor | MD184529 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | Needs to be hard-wired in. 1989-90 preferable. | |
| Throttle Body | MD176372 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | 1991-94 N/T only, no sensors. | |
| Throttle Body Gasket | MD192535 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Cylinder Head Gasket | MD189436 | 1 | 4G64 DOHC | ||
| Valve Timing Belt | MD182292 | 1 | 4G64 DOHC | ||
| Cylinder Head Bolts | MD191470 | 10 | ANY DOHC | Optional | Yours may be re-usable. Or get ARP bolts. |
| Valve Cover | MD316252 | 1 | ANY DOHC | ||
| Valve Cover Sparkplug Insert | MD316138 | 1 | ANY DOHC | Optional | The plastic insert that covers the wires. |
| Valve Cover Sparkplug Insert Bolts | MD130704 | 5 | ANY DOHC | Optional | Bolts for the insert. |
| Inner Valve Cover Bolts | MF241228 | 6 | ANY DOHC | ||
| Outer Valve Cover Bolts | MF241829 | 8 | ANY DOHC | ||
| Valve Cover Gasket | MD186784 | 1 | ANY DOHC | ||
| Sparkplug Hole Gasket | MD186785 | 4 | ANY DOHC | ||
| PCV Valve | MD024719 | 1 | ANY DOHC | ||
| Intake Manifold | MD127642 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Intake Manifold Gasket | MD188995 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Intake Manifold Stay | MD138851 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | Bracket that holds the mani to the block. | |
| Water Pipe | MD171058 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | Use N/T pipe unless you want the water fitting. | |
| Thermostat Housing | MD190338 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Thermostat | MD997608 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Water Outlet Fitting | MD130457 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Thermostat Housing Nut | MF430181 | 3 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Thermostat Housing Bolt | MF241855 | 2 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Upper Radiator Hose | MB356992 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Lower Radiator Hose | MB605486 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Fuel Rail | MD322834 | 1 | ANY DOHC | ||
| Fuel Rail Bolt | MF240066 | 1 | ANY DOHC | Optional | Turbo fuel rail has one more bolt hole. |
| Fuel Rail Bolt Spacer | MD095402 | 1 | ANY DOHC | Optional | Need one of these for the extra bolt. |
| Injector Bottom O-Ring | MD087060 | 4 | ANY DOHC | Optional | Yours may be re-usable, but better to replace. |
| Ignition Coil w/ bracket | MD126461 | 1 | 1G 4G63 | You'll need to use your exsisting wire harness. | |
| Ignition Coil Bolt | MF140753 | 4 | 1G 4G63 | ||
| Sparkplug Cable Set | MD195228 | 1 | ANY DOHC | ||
| Sparkplug | MS851238 | 4 | 4G64 DOHC | ||
Installation Notes:
Plugging the
Block
First and foremost, there are five holes on the
4g64 block that need to be plugged. These are non-presurized oil drain holes
that the DOHC head does not have. With the head mounted, parts of these holes
are exposed, so you need to plug them to keep out the elements. You can have a
machine shop tap and plug the holes - make sure the plugs are flush or slightly
below the top of the block. An easier method is to make your own gaskets (cut
from a soda can) and secure them down with hi-temp oil-resistant silicone
sealant. I've used this method and haven't had any problems to date. Below are
the holes you need to plug:
Wiring the 1G
CAS
You will need to hard-wire the 1G CAS to your
exsisting CAS plug. Snip the plug and strip the wires. Connect them as is shown
in the following diagram - use wire connectors or solder your connections, then
secure everything with electrical tape and/or heat-shrink tubing.
The white wire is the cam signal, the red and black are power and ground. The yellow wire is unused - it provides a simulated crank signal to the 1G ECU but you'll be using your exsisting (and more accurate) crank sensor. Snip it and tape it up.
More Coming Soon...